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Madrid Cuisine

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Published: August 23, 2006

Say the words "Madrid cuisine and many people's first response is "paella." This is the wonderful, saffron-seasoned Spanish dish that combines rice, seafood and chicken or other meat.

While you can get good paella in Madrid, the dish is not native to the city. It comes from Valencia, a city on Spain's Mediterranean coast.

In a way, paella is "Madrid cuisine," because it is one of many regional Spanish cuisines Madrid has drawn to herself and given her own imprint.

For instance, though nowhere near a sea or ocean, Madrid cuisine is known for its fish dishes. The city's centralized location makes it easy for fish and seafood to be brought in nightly from port cities like Malaga and Vigo. As a result, Madrid's fish market has been compared to Tokyo's, the largest in the world. Travelers in the know suggest the besugo (sea bream) or bacalao (codfish) if it appears on the menu.

Similarly, Madrilenos love jamon (ham) so much that meat stores specializing in the product are called museos del jamon (ham museums). The best ham, however, comes from southern Spain.

Tapas may or may not be "real" Madrid cuisine. The term most often refers to small dishes of food, such as olives or cheese, set out for bar patrons. It can, however, be expanded to include larger portions, which are shared by two or more people. The word tapas refers to lids or covers used to protect food from insects. Traditionally the small portions of cheese served by Castile tavern owners during the 16th century came to be called tapas because the cheese "covered" the taste of bad wine. (Castile is the region where Madrid is located.)

Madrid's chilly winters likely spawned the city's fondness for hot, hearty dishes such as stews and soups. Its trademark cocido madrileno is a rich and filling stew of garbanzo beans, vegetables and meat. Sopa de ajo (garlic soup) is a staple of Madrid cuisine.

Madrilenos are meat eaters. Beef and lamb are integral ingredients in traditional Madrid cuisine, as much of the surrounding land is arid and conducive to raising cattle and sheep. Festive dinners often boast roasted suckling pigs or lambs.

Animal organs also play an important role in Madrid cuisine. Callos a la madrilena blends tomatoes, onions and garlic with tripe (veal stomach). A simple stew called rinones al jerez features kidneys and sherry. The use of the entire animal reflects the harsh living conditions Madrilenos coped with for centuries. They simply could not afford to throw anything edible away and became adept in turning the "leftovers" into nourishing meals.

The dessert course offers a lighter, sweeter countenance to such heavy main fare. Like most of Madrid cuisine, dessert tends to be simple, such as fresh fruit, torrijas (a cross between French toast and bread pudding) and barquillos (rolled wafers). Marzipan, the delectable almond paste fashioned into fruit and vegetable shapes, is popular at Christmastime. Churros, fried wafers drizzled with thick melted chocolate, are a favorite morning or late-night snack treat.

Be sure to sample some of Spain's best-known alcoholic beverages while indulging in Madrid cuisine. The country is famous for its sherry and Rioja wines, which come from the Andalusia region of Spain. Rioja wines can be red, white or rose. Ribera de Duero is a stronger wine often recommended to accompany heavier stews and meats.

In Madrid, meals are taken much later in the day than they are in most Western nations. Lunch is regarded by many Madrilenos as the main meal of the day and is usually eaten between 1:30 and 4 p.m. Given the heaviness of the food consumed, it is not unusual to break for a short siesta (nap) after lunch, before returning to the office.

Dinner begins around 9 p.m. or later. The lateness of the hour usually calls for a lighter meal than the midday lunch. Sometimes the meal is as little as a few tapas or a toasted jamon sandwich with a glass of Rioja. Buen apetito!